Along a quiet stretch of the Sacramento River, there is a roadside attraction that feels almost too strange to be real: a weathered, old sternwheeler sitting high and dry, as if it drifted out of the past and anchored along the Garden Highway.
What makes this attraction even more interesting, is the fact that it’s not just an abandoned boat. Over the decades, the Spirit of Sacramento has lived several lives: first as a working snagboat, then as a Hollywood vessel tied to John Wayne and Blood Alley, later as an excursion and dinner-cruise boat, and finally as one of the Sacramento area’s strangest roadside relics.
Official and local sources trace the vessel back to 1942, its Army Corps service as the Putah, its later film connection, its 1991 relaunch as the Spirit of Sacramento, and its decline after a destructive 1996 fire.
Spirit of Sacramento Quick Facts
- Built: 1942
- Original name: Putah
- Original role: Snagboat for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
- Hollywood tie: Used in the 1955 John Wayne film Blood Alley.
- Later names: Chicu San, Mansion Belle, Grand Romance, Spirit of Sacramento.
- Major turning point: A destructive fire in 1996.
- Current status: Abandoned on land near the Sacramento River.
What Is the Spirit of Sacramento?
The Spirit of Sacramento is an abandoned sternwheel riverboat with a layered history and several former identities. Sources on the vessel describe it as originally built in 1942 as the Putah, a snagboat for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers, before later becoming associated with names including Chicu San, Mansion Belle, Grand Romance, and Spirit of Sacramento.
What makes the boat especially memorable is that it is not tied to just one kind of California story. It simultaneously belongs to river history, old Hollywood, local tourism, and the visual appeal of abandoned places. That combination is a big reason it still stands out in regional coverage and as a roadside attraction today.
The Putah: A River Workhorse Before the Fame
The Putah was built in 1942 by the Berkeley Steel Construction Company as a snagboat for the U.S. Army Corp of Engineers (USACE). This organization is responsible for developing, investigating and maintaining the nation’s water resources and related environmental resources.
A snagboat’s primary purpose was to remove snags and other obstructions from rivers so that people and other boats (like steamboats) could safely pass through. Snags could cause serious damage to a boat by puncturing the exterior and causing it to sink.
In the late 1940’s, the Putah was still actively working up and down the Sacramento River. According to the Oakland Tribune (Apr 25, 1948), the stern wheeler was diesel electric, 98 feet long and mastered by Marshall Fall.
The Putah is believed to have been in operation with the USACE until purchased by John Wayne in the fall of 1954 for his film Blood Alley. Wayne’s company purchased the boat from William Mitchell.
The following details about the Putah is from an August 21, 1954, article in the Daily Independent Journal out of San Rafael:
“Built of iron, her length is 82 feet and her beam 24 feet, and she does 10 knots. A V8 Caterpiller Diesel electric engine, turns the generator providing electricity for the enormous paddle wheel in the stern. Her hull, composed of ballast tanks, can be filled with water and give her great drive, or emptied and enable her to navigate in extremely shallow waters”
The article also stated that the Putah had a galley, stateroom, a comfortable crew’s quarters, was skippered by Cass Gidley and had an engineer named Bill Lowden.
The John Wayne and Blood Alley Chapter
Blood Alley, produced by John Wayne’s company Batjac, was a 1955 film about an anti-Communist merchant marine who was freed from a Chinese prison and would rescue hundreds of villagers by taking them on a daring boat escape to Hong Kong.
The film was based on a novel by Aaron Sidney Fleischman and directed by William A. Wellman. It starred John Wayne as the hero and Lauren Bacall as the “love interest.” Ironically, John Wayne was a last minute substitution for this leading role as Robert Mitchum was the original choice.
However, after a falling out with the director, Mitchum was removed. Gregory Peck was next in line, but turned down the offer. Next was Humphrey Bogart who reportedly asked for too much money. So, Wayne stepped in.
The Putah would make its Hollywood debut and receive a makeover to play the part. Named the Chicu San/Chiku Shan in the film, some could even argue that our beloved Putah played a major role and quite possibly stole the spotlight from Wayne and Bacall.
The following excerpt is from a 1955 film review of Blood Alley by the New York Times:
“Their grand plan is to take all of its 189 souls aboard an ancient, wood-burning, stern-wheeler ferryboat, with Captain Wayne as the expert, intrepid pilot at the wheel, along the dangerous 300-mile route to Hong Kong and freedom. And before the battered Chiku Shan makes port at Hong Kong, it has weathered a chase by a gunboat, a storm, the sinister machinations of a Communist family aboard, a waning food and fuel supply and a bombing by a destroyer.”
From Putah to The Mansion Belle
Sometime after the film was completed, John Wayne sold The Putah to Frank Parisi, a Sacramento businessman that owned Parisi’s Fine Italian Food located on Fulton Ave.
He renamed the sternwheeler the Mansion Belle and offered river cruises along the Sacramento River and through the Delta. According to the Center For Sacramento History, the boat was docked at Front and O streets. Parisi promoted the boat as ‘the only sternwheeler West of the Mississippi’.
In 1957, the boat was involved in an accident, which was just the beginning of a long line of incidents that this vessel would endure. The Mansion Belle apparently rammed into a cottage and lost 10 blades from the stern wheel. The following article is from the Sausalito News dated August 24, 1957:
In 1959, the Mansion Belle made a voyage up to Oregon for the “Oregon Centennial.” It provided opportunities for passengers to cruise up the rivers and envision what life used to be like when boats like these were a main source of transportation.
After this voyage north, things get confusing in regards to the ownership and whereabouts of the Mansion Belle.
According to The Independent (Feb 19, 1959) out of Long Beach, a California corporation allegedly purchased the Mansion Belle for $65,000. The ship was supposed to be renamed the Lillian Belle and towed from Oakland down to San Diego’s Mission Bay. As of now, I’m unable to find any information on this actually happening. However, quite the opposite happens.
By the summer of 1961, the Mansion Belle was back in Sacramento providing cruises from Sacramento down to Walnut Grove and back. But, it’s time in Sacramento seemed short lived.
Three years later, the Mansion Belle finally made its way down to Southern California, but it started running cruises out of Marina del Ray. According to the Los Angeles Times (Oct 28, 1964), the Mansion Belle was the new “party boat” in town. The ship was all cleaned up and had a Victorian décor. There was an upper and lower salon and two bars that made this ship like a floating restaurant. A renowned chef named John Cirner was in charge of the food services.
The Mansion Belle earned quite the reputation for a good time. In addition to running regular cruises, the Mansion Belle was also privately chartered for many different events. Some of the more “memorable” events included proms and the Miss Marina del Ray pageant.
A year later, the Los Angeles Times reported that the Mansion Belle was operated by Bob Morris whose family ran Paradise Cover for many years.
In 1966, the sternwheeler made its way down to Long Beach where it provided romantic cruises around the harbor. She could only stay within the harbor’s limits due to the potential damage she would suffer from going into the ocean. In October of 1966, the Mansion Belle took on the Princess in a grudge riverboat race. This was the first of its kind in California and our beloved sternwheeler won the race. She was skippered by Gary LaMont. (Independent Press Telegram – Oct 23, 1966)
Unfortunately, I have no idea what happened to the boat in the 70’s and 80’s. Eventually, it would make its way back to the Sacramento region by the early 90’s and once again, provide cruises along the river.
The Spirit of Sacramento Era
In 1991, the boat was purchased by Channel Star Excursions and renamed the Spirit of Sacramento. Along with the Matthew McKinley, this boat was docked at the Old Sacramento Waterfront and provided river cruises. At this point, the Spirit of Sacramento held 350 passengers and offered dinner cruises, sightseeing ventures, and even a murder mystery. After 5 years of successful cruises, the Spirit of Sacramento suffered a fire that ultimately sealed its fate.
The Fire of 1996
On February 3, 1996, the fire department responded at 3:30 a.m. to a fire aboard the Spirit of Sacramento, which was docked near the K Street landing. They found the boat “fully involved” and a second alarm was called, according to the Sacramento Bee. Fortunately, the fire department was able to prevent the fire from spreading to the nearby Delta King. Sadly, the Spirit of Sacramento was completely destroyed.
A New Owner, Same Bad Luck
In 1997, William Barker purchased the damaged boat with the intentions of restoring it to its glory days and renaming it “The Duke.” Barker also owned another boat the Grande Romance, which he took passengers on river cruises and attempted to model it after the Spirit of Sacramento.
Despite dropping over a half million dollars in repairs on the Spirit of Sacramento, Barker’s plans were foiled due to what he called “pirates” constantly damaging his ship. Eventually, the paddlewheel riverboat was left abandoned, tied up along the Sacramento River. For the rest of the 90’s and into the 21st century, the boat could be seen half sunk in the river.
Up close view of the Spirit of Sacramento
Why the Boat Sits on Land Today
Around 2006, a massive effort was undertaken to raise the partially sunken boat. You can see this effort in the KCRA news video below.
However, this large vessel was causing concerns with other businesses and people throughout the river area. Over the next few years, growing fears of the boat floating down river and destroying everything in its path led to a public lobbying for its removal.
In 2012, the Abandoned Vessel Program was underway and the Spirit of Sacramento was one of the first abandoned boats to be targeted by authorities. Eventually, a court ordered that the boat be removed from the water and placed on land where it still sits today.
Can You Still See the Spirit of Sacramento?
Yes, The Spirit of Sacramento (now referred to as the “old” Spirit of Sacramento due to a newer vessel taking on the same name) is incredible to see in person. In fact, it’s almost surreal when you first lay eyes on it.
Here’s a massive riverboat among the trees, just screaming to be restored and placed back in the water. Sadly, it appears that this could be the boat’s final resting place as there has been no word of any future restoration plans.
It must be noted that this riverboat sits on private property with no trespassing signs. You will have to view it from the road, which there’s no parking other than to pull of on the side of Garden Highway.
I was able to take pictures of it and tour the inside several years ago due to receiving permission from the landowner. Do not go on the property without permission.
Why the Spirit of Sacramento Still Fascinates People
There’s an undeniable curiosity about this riverboat. It’s not often you see a vessel of this size sitting among the trees. It’s as if your eyes are playing a trick on you when first seeing it in person.
When you add the boat’s backstory that includes John Wayne, the Spirit of Sacramento becomes more than just a roadside attraction. It becomes a Sacramento landmark that leaves an impression on people long after they have seen it.
I first visited the Spirit of Sacramento in 2016, and it has never lost its ability to stop me in my tracks.
Seeing it from the road is fascinating enough, but getting close to the boat with permission, as I did, makes the experience even more powerful. Up close, you feel as if you are stepping into another era, while the boat’s size, details, and atmosphere stir that same sense of wonder you had as a kid.
Side view of the riverboat
FAQ About the Spirit of Sacramento
What is the Spirit of Sacramento?
The Spirit of Sacramento is an abandoned sternwheel riverboat near Sacramento. It began life in 1942 as the snagboat Putah, later appeared in Blood Alley, operated as an excursion vessel, and eventually declined after a 1996 fire.
Was the Spirit of Sacramento in a John Wayne movie?
Yes, the vessel was used in the 1955 film Blood Alley, starring John Wayne and Lauren Bacall.
What was the Spirit of Sacramento originally called?
It was originally built as the Putah for the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers.
Why is the Spirit of Sacramento abandoned?
After the 1996 fire, later restoration efforts were undermined by setbacks that included vandalism, repeated swamping or sinking episodes, and legal trouble, eventually leading to its removal from the river.
Can you still see the Spirit of Sacramento?
You may be able to view it from the road, but it is on private property and is not a normal public attraction.
Side view of the Spirit of Sacramento from the road
Sources
Oakland Tribune, April 25, 1948
Daily Independent Journal, August 21, 1954
New York Times, 1955
Sausalito News, August 24, 1957
The Independent, February 19, 1959
Los Angeles Times, October 28, 1964
Independent Press-Telegram, October 23, 1966
California State Lands Commission, Abandoned Vessels on State Waterways – https://www.slc.ca.gov/abandoned-vessels-program/
CapRadio, A Riverboat That’s Not Afloat: The Old Spirit of Sacramento – https://www.capradio.org/articles/2016/10/07/a-riverboat-thats-not-afloat-the-old-spirit-of-sacramento/
Center For Sacramento History
http://sacramento.pastperfectonline.com/photo/2FEC9861-2E31-4E2D-A9A1-514138114212
